interview with martin andersson, head of menswear design at COS

interview with martin andersson, head of menswear design at COS
all images courtesy of COS

since its launch in 2007, COS, or collection of style, has been creating timeless designs that live beyond the season. originating in sweden, the london-based fashion house has continued to merge traditional production methods with new techniques and innovative fabrics that look and feel modern and classic. behind the curtains of madness sits martin andersson, head of menswear design who works closely with both karin gustafsson head of womenswear design and his menswear team, comprised of designers, pattern cutters and buyers. before graduating from one of the most prestigious fashion schools – central saint martins, the swedish-native earned a degree in menswear design and worked at a number of british brands and started his own label – all before joining COS in 2008. designboom interviews andersson on his thoughts on the future of fashion, and some insight of what it takes to create some of fashion’s most classic and timeless collections.

designboom (DB): can you tell us the story of how you came to work at COS?

martin andersson (MA): growing up in rural sweden in the days before the internet, the only fashion inspiration I could get my hands on was magazines such as ID and the face. it was during this period I started sketching my own designs and enlisted my mother, an accomplished seamstress, to help me bring them to life. wishing to pursue a career in fashion, I moved to london and began studying at central saint martins. after graduating, I was lucky enough to work as a designer at a number of british brands and even had my own label before joining COS in 2008.

DB: can you explain your role as a head designer of menswear at COS?

MA: my role as head of menswear design at COS, requires me to work closely with both karin gustafsson, head of womenswear design and the menswear team, comprised of; designers, pattern cutters and buyers, all based here in our london head office. at the start of the creative process for each season, we sit collectively and discuss the fundamental direction of the collection – organizing our inspirations into themes and beginning to work on the individual garment design, colour and composition. further down the line, we work together to research our best production options and review the garments’ fit, style and fabric numerous times in order to successfully achieve our creative vision.

DB: what trends or themes influenced the design of the spring/summer 2015 collection?

MA: our spring summer 2015 collection was greatly inspired by american artist richard tuttle’s work with mixed media and geoffrey bawa’s ‘tropical modernism’, amongst others. an air of sportiness runs through-out the collection, with an emphasis on specialized materials, including crisp technical cottons combined with finishes such as glued hems and bonded details. when we were working on this collection, it was like working in a laboratory, experimenting with innovative techniques and finding new ways of working to create the ultimate utility wear.

DB: how would you define COS?

MA: the essence of COS has always been about creating timeless, modern, tactile and functional designs. in the design process we look at every aspect of the garment to ensure that each design element is considered and has a purpose. our brand philosophy has always been to offer high end design and high quality at an affordable price, creating collections that last beyond the season.

DB: where do you find inspiration? do you ever take design cues from outside the fashion world?

MA: since the launch of the brand in 2007, art and design have been inherent within COS’ DNA and serve as our main sources of inspiration for all COS collections. each season we travel around the world visiting galleries and fairs that exhibit the works of both established and emerging artists, photographers, designers and architects. our COS store launches in NYC and LA at the end of last year (2014), gave us a great excuse to explore, which resulted in us collecting some abstract and unexpected influences. we then come together and interpret our findings and apply them through-out the collection to create a conceptual story divided into themes.

DB: how do you manage to continuously innovate on classic and timeless collections?

MA: regardless of the season, minimalist construction, tailoring, tactility and ‘basics’ are at the core of the COS collection. however, we always design with the customer in mind and want to offer something new and interesting each season. we therefore pay a lot of attention into ways in which we can be innovative; whether these principles are applied to technical fabrics or the ‘re-invention’ of a timeless style. for example, in the spring / summer 2015 menswear collection, we have a simple structured bomber jacket that has been constructed using technical cotton.

DB: what are your thoughts on the concept of ‘fast fashion’?

MA: I would say that the COS customer favors timeless design above fast fashion. our customers are style conscious and seek out good quality in all fields of design inclusive of fashion, interiors and architecture.

DB: what is your philosophy around a minimal design aesthetic?

MA: minimal design doesn’t mean minimal effort. at COS, we aim to make every item feel special and therefore concentrate on quality fabrics with luxurious textures and interesting silhouettes. our minimal aesthetic never stops us from playing with design, change is after all the nature of fashion. having said this, we do tend to stay away from unnecessary adornments and always ask ourselves whether a design feature on a garment has a functional purpose.

DB: what are your thoughts on the future of fashion?

MA: who knows what the future holds. the world of fashion has changed so drastically over the past 20 years. however in terms of the future for COS, we plan to hold on to our direction and continue to maintain and evolve our aesthetic based on our belief of offering a high quality collection at comparably affordable prices.

1/7