a visual history of NIKE's iconic print and pattern design

a visual history of NIKE’s iconic print and pattern design
(above) 1985 geometric short

since the founding of its first in-house art department in 1983, NIKE has acted under the calculation that clothing can psychologically prompt its wearer to perform better. in bringing together the psychology of color with performance design, the brand became famous for a series of prints and patterns aimed at impacting the aesthetic conditions of athletes and non-athletes alike.

in 1983, the department’s debut designs comprised an iconic, yet conservative series of t-shirts. without any particular graphic identity, these items prompted the need for NIKE to build a system of graphics that would embody the spirit and motion of sport. responses to this arrived in 1985 with the release of NIKE’s first all-over prints — a pink, white and red pattern derived from shoe outsoles, and gold barbells repeated on a black background. extending beyond mere decoration, these initial designs united the brand’s values with external influences like cultural trends, historical references and global sporting events.

1987 print fleece crew

by the end of the 1980s, NIKE’s emblematic motifs began to extend beyond the boundary of the sports field and appear on the streets, referencing numerous subcultures from hip-hop communities to milan’s high-fashion houses.

as the 1990s began, the art department took their design culture a step further by tasking their creative team to realize attire for sports outside their comfort zones. for example, a designer who was an avid hiker was asked to develop textiles for basketball. this type of innovative thinking prompted new ways of working: motifs were bleached onto fabric; symbols were carved from potatoes and wood; patterns were printed with leaves; designs were redacted by whiteout and manipulated by markers.

1990 spike lee’s urban jungle gym jacket

this signature style informed the entire company, with each sports sector identified by an individual print, specially crafted to express their personality: running embodied speed; golf was given a sporty texture; aerobics highlighted daring motifs. these new aesthetic enabled athletes to make personal statements through print.

the bold mash-ups that defined NIKE apparel permeated everything from the grunge and rap scenes, with key patterns becoming cultural icons. in 2010, the introduction of black tights printed with skeleton bones spawning the ‘tight of the moment’ collection. limited-edition styles dropped on a monthly basis, featuring a profusion of patterns including exaggerated paisley, polka dots, roses, and checkerboards. the popularity of NIKE’s printed tights transformed the garment from a workout pant to an everyday staple of style-conscious women across the world.

1991 echelon topo map print t-shirt

today, the rapid development of textile technology continues to expand NIKE’s offerings. its current print department embodies values of practiced craftsmanship, painting, drawing and screen-printing with computer capabilities. its designers continue to push the expectations and limitations of graphic styles. every so often — satisfying lifelong NIKE fans across the world — they dig deep into the company’s vast material archive to revisit, rethink, and remarket iconic designs from the past.

1991 cancun reversible jacket