italian designer and fashion revolutionary elio fiorucci passes away

italian designer and fashion revolutionary elio fiorucci passes away

elio fiorucci, one of the fashion world’s most iconic designers has passed away at the age of 80 as a result of illness, at his home in milan. known for his rebellious street style and pop art aesthetic that flourished in the 70s and 80s, the italian creative opened his first shop in 1967 in milan which became a reference for the unconventional and revolutionary trendsetters during that period; and by 1970 was producing his own line of jeans under the name ‘fiorucci‘ with distribution in europe, south america and japan — projecting a whole new type of lifestyle for the young generation of the time. retail shops in london and new york city followed, the latter designed by his italian contemporaries ettore sottsass, andrea branzi and franco marabelli; and which quickly became a hotspot for the intellectual and creative community of the booming american metropolis to meet. in fact, andy warhol chose the fiorucci shop window to launch his magazine ‘interview’ in 1976.

the famous fiorucci logo featuring two angels

into the 1980s, fiorucci continued to make its claim to fame, collaborating with walt disney on a successful series of t-shirts and sweaters. furthermore, with the release of the film ‘flashdance’ in 1983, fiorucci became the first shop to sell colorful bodysuits, leggings and leg warmers giving birth to a new sports-fashion movement. the same year, the fiorucci brand celebrated its 15th anniversary hosting a huge party at new york’s studio 54, with a very young madonna as the night’s entertainment.

elio continued to mingle with world’s top artists and designers of the day, inviting keith haring in 1984 to paint the fiorucci flagship store in milan, covering the walls and furniture of the interior with his colorful and graphic artwork. in 1990, the fiorucci brand was sold to japanese denim leader edwin international. elio remained the art director for the store, transforming it into a ‘hub’ for young and unknown brands, as well as a place for the people of milan to meet. in 2003 when the fiorucci shop was taken over by swedish group H&M, elio created a new brand called ‘love therapy‘ — a collection of colorful t-shirts, jeans and accessories, with two gnomes standing as its symbol, with its shop still in full swing in san babila.

we take this occasion to remember elio fiorucci by republishing the historic interview we conducted with him on june 30th, 2000.

the fiorucci logo with an updated look

designboom: what is the best moment of the day?

elio fiorucci: it’s sort of like the seasons: either spring or fall, that is either morning or dusk.

DB: what kind of music do you listen to at the moment?

EF: 60’s music, but I like all kinds of music.

DB: do you listen to the radio?

EF: yes, because it’s convenient to listen when I’m driving or walking around my house.

DB: what books do you have on your bedside table?

EF: now there is a book by don giussani, which talks about a new modern religiousness. today people don’t read novels anymore, they read so-called ‘philosophy’ books, becaseu we are interested in understanding what happens to us and why.

DB: do you read design magazines?

EF: I look at them more than read them.

DB: what about newspapers? where do you get news from?

EF: I watch TV, I watch ‘CNN’… even if I don’t speak english that well, it’s like getting the news first. people are curious, they always want to understand first and get their information from a trustworthy source. italian newspapers and TV news don’t have these characteristics, so it’s important to have a ‘global’ news source.

1970s fiorucci graphic fond on the shopping bags distributed at the brands via torino store in milan

DB: since you certainly pay attention to women’s fashion, do you have any preferences?

EF: I am more fascinated by modernity, by someone who communicates something new through clothing. I think it is true that clothes tell you something about a person, and about their modernness.

DB: what kind of men’s clothes would you never wear?

EF: I don’t like to go to parties in a tuxedo, it bothers me. I think that when a man needs to feel at ease, when he is physically comfortable he is also spiritually comfortable.

vintage fiorucci advertisement

DB: do you have any pets?

EF: no. I love animals, but it seems like making them suffer. the relationship between people and animals is very complex. if you love animals you become a victim, because it is as if they were your children.

DB: where do you think of your designs and projects?

EF: I believe that creativity is not solitary. usually I hold meetings in my office. I am not the type of person who looks for solitude or silence, I like to flip through newspapers, go to the market, walk in the street and talk to people.

DB: describe your “style” like a good friend of yours would.

EF: I think that fiorucci has taken many things from different cultures and recontextualized them. this is the secret. I like nostalgia, there is nothing bad about looking back at the past with fondness, but I also like to think about the future. I want to find a balance, I don’t want to be stuck to any one style or fanaticism in particular. I like to move between different things and choose them without prejudice regarding materials or form. this is our right, nobody has the right to culturally imprison us.

vintage fiorucci advertisement

DB: which of your projects has given you the most satisfaction?

EF: creating a new store is exciting for me, different things come together, there is a creative part and a functional part, structure and ornament…

DB: in your store in milan you see a lot of young people, can you describe how they have changed over the last ten years?

EF: yes, I think that each decade is a new generation, but there is a continuous change. even though young people nowadays are thought to be careless and insensitive, I believe the opposite is true. they have more time to cultivate their own souls, their own awareness. these kids study, they all watch TV, they have information. they are much better than us.

fiorucci girls

DB: which fashion designers have been important points of reference for you?

EF: jean paul gaultier, but also the kids at the schools in london, brussels…

DB: what architect and/or designer do you particularly admire?

EF: alessandro mendini and ettore sottass. I have always thought that there is an affinity between architecture and fashion. I don’t use it, but I admire it a lot, in the sense that it is the largest global cultural revolution that will change our lives. all of these brains put together will make a leap ahead for humanity in all fields.

elio fiorucci with andy warhol in los angeles in 1978
image courtesy of elio fiorucci press

DB: what are you afraid of in the future?

EF: the future has the means of resolving all problems. you need to fear politicians. politicians, for years, for centuries have kept people apart. they have divided them, they have turned one against another. famished countries are at war with each other, they have terrible leaders. people are afraid of not having a political father but then they suffer because of him. we need to get rid of politicians.

keith haring painting the fiorucci store in milan